Lucca, October 21-23, 2017

Yes, we are not keeping up the blog.  So far we have visited the Cinque Terre and Florence and about to head south to Positano.  This post is about Lucca.

Lucca, in northern Tuscany, is an example of a classic middle age era city state.  The defining structure of the city is the incredible city wall.


In its time the defensive wall was state of the art with a sloped outer wall to repell cannonballs, constructed hollow and then filled with soil.  The wall has gigantic ramparts so that all sides of the exterior wall can be defended.

The top of the wall is wide enough to support a modern 2 lane highway.  The base wide enough for 4 lanes.






The wall was never battle tested.  However, given its size the people of the city, starting in the 17th century, used the top of the wall as a social gathering place.  That use continues today.

During our walk of the wall we saw a thriving local community. We saw people walking their dogs, runners, pensioners, people watching and playing chess.  There was even a little 3 km 'run with your dog' marathon on the day before the full marathon.  People were running with their little dogs! Very cute!

On top of the wall

People were so friendly.  So many "Buon giorno's."

The shopping in old town was very good too and seemingly practiced by all.  Lots of people watching. Seemed like no two people had the same shoes.  Everyone was dressing nicely. Eric said he could do street photography of people's shoes and the little dogs they were walking.



The food was great and we enjoyed ourselves immensely sipping wine in an outside cafe after a stressful drive from southern Tuscany.  Did we say how great the wine was?  And the cheese?  After returning the rental car we needed a drink, or two.

We are not happy with Hertz car rentals.  When we rented the car in Florence we signed up for super insurance coverage for dents and scratches with no deductable.  They said given our coverage there was no reason to mark dents and scratches on the pre-checkout form.  Thank goodness we took pics of the car before we left the lot.

In Lucca where we returned the car, Hertz wanted to charge us for the dents since the pre checkout form was blank.  Eric had to argue the situation and showed the pics.  They wanted to see Eric's phone to confirm the date of the pics.  Hertz backed off.

As far as charging us for dents they were after the deductable even though we had the expensive insurance that waived the estimated deductable. That argument became moot when Hertz acknowledged the pre-existing damage.

Bottomline line is always take pics of rental cars and triple check your insurance.  We were covered.  The wine in Lucca was very good even after the first decompression glass!




We very much enjoyed the community atmosphere in Lucca. While exercising one morning on the wall, Sue saw the Italian Language School. It offers Italian immersion language classes and cooking classes that last 3 months.  This has piqued Sue's attention.

Here are some pics around Lucca...











Tuscany #1 October 14-20, 2017

Tuscany is about wide open wheat fields, vineyards, cattle, friendly people, great food and fortifications of some sort on every major hill.  (Remember to click on a pic to make it bigger...)
On the 14th we arrived via train in Florence and had a driver take us from the train to the car rental company which was quite a distance from the train station.

The route south out of Florence was Byzantine but we managed with some stress.  

We experienced the typical Italian predatory driving habits that make driving in Italy not fun.  Italians drive fast with what seems like 25 km/hr over the speed limit.  Too many tailgate within 10 feet of your trunk.  

On two lane highways many drivers drive about a foot over into the oncoming traffic lane. They don't scoot over until you approach them.

Too many pass like they are in some kind of grand prix race.  We don't get it.  The people we meet are so friendly so we have concluded that there must be some kind of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde issue going on.

We rented an Audi with automatic transmission.  Automatic transmissions are rare in Italy because we are told that Italians like more control of the engine rpm going up and down hills.

In the car rental parking lot we saw an elderly American couple struggling with their manual transmission. The poor guy said he hadn't driven a manual transmission in 30 years. We left the parking lot before they did on purpose.

While we both have experience with our old Subaru's manual transmission we didn't want to deal with a manual transmission here  since we are in such an unfamiliar driving environment.

Eric says the Audi handles tightly on the winding two lane Tuscan highways. Sue had to hold on to her roof handle on tight turns so we would keep up with the flow of traffic. 

While Eric complains that he is tired of other drivers 'riding his trunk', he gets a glint in his eye (his good eye!) learning Italian predatory driving etiquette. 

Our destination was a B&B, Villa Rosa Dei Venti, about 130 miles south of Florence.  

Here is a map link.


This location was prime for winding down from the fast pace of Venice and centrally located for visiting some of the ancient hilltop villages and fortifications.









The most famous Tuscan hill city we visited was Cortona. A beautiful city with great trattorias (small family owned restaurants).  Hiking up to the old fortress was a real climb.  Not too many people were on the trail.








Some more pics around town...






GREAT food!





On our way to our next destination we had time to visit other hill cities.  They were very quiet compared to Cortona.  See pics below.











Our next destination by car was Hotel Osteria Dell'Orcia, near the ancient thermal baths of Bagno Vignoni.  Eric improved his Italian predatory driving skills.  To drive your car through a narrow street simply gun the engine just a tad.  People instinctively move out of the way.



Here is a link to the map for Bagno Vignoni.

Here are some pics of the hotel:










The hotel owned a donkey named Zorro that loved to bray when people were around.  He a had a large paddock and he loved to carry sticks and eat apples.  It was all we could do not to pet him since donkeys can be unpredictable.




Here are some pics of the ancient Roman baths.  Visualize all the naked Romans splashing around in the hot water.  If walls could talk.






The food at the hotel was fantastic.  Sue enjoyed the pork stomachs.




Next we head to Lucca which is west of Florence...